How to choose your cat’s carrier and get it inside without a fight
The carrier is the object most cats hate most, and it is nearly always our fault: they only see it on vet day. Choosing a good one and turning it into just another piece of furniture completely changes clinic visits and journeys.
Why it matters so much
A cat that will not go into its carrier is a cat that goes to the vet less, because every visit becomes a chase, with scratches and stress all round. The cat-friendly handling guidelines that many clinics follow stress that much of a cat’s fear of the vet starts at home, with the carrier. A good carrier, of the right type and introduced from the start, reduces that stress, lets you transport the cat safely in the car and makes it easier for the vet to examine it without a struggle. It is one of the most important and most underrated purchases.
A rigid carrier that opens at the top, the best all-rounder
For everyday use, vet visits and the car, the most advisable option is a rigid carrier made of tough plastic that also opens at the top and whose upper half can be removed easily, with screws or clips. That way, at the clinic, nobody has to drag the cat out through the front door: the lid comes off and the vet can often examine it in the bottom half, where it feels safer. It should have good ventilation, a metal or thick plastic door with a firm catch and a strong handle. In Spain they cost between €25 and €60, and they last the cat’s whole life.
The right size
The carrier should let the cat stand up, turn round and lie stretched out comfortably. As a guide, its length should be about one and a half times the length of the cat’s body, not counting the tail. One that is too small makes it feel cramped, and one that is too big lets it slide around and bump itself on bends or when carried. If you are buying for a kitten, think about its adult size. And if your cat is a large breed, such as the Maine Coon, Norwegian Forest Cat or Ragdoll, you will probably need a carrier for a medium-sized dog.
Soft carriers and bags
Soft bags and carriers are lighter and more comfortable to carry on your shoulder, and they are what many airlines ask for in the cabin. In exchange, they protect less well in a car impact, lose their shape if the cat moves around a lot and are harder to clean if it wees. Some cats accept them more readily because they are darker and more enclosed. If you use one, choose one with a rigid base, good ventilation on several sides, zips with safety locks and, ideally, a top opening. For flying, always check your airline’s exact dimensions.
Bubble backpacks: with caution
Backpacks with a transparent bubble window have become fashionable, but they are not the kindest option for many cats. The cat is on display with nowhere to hide, which causes a frightened animal more stress, and in summer the bubble can act like a greenhouse and heat the inside considerably. They may suit some very confident, accustomed cats on short trips out of the sun, but not as the main carrier. For most cats, a carrier they can hide in is better than one where they can be seen.
What to avoid
Avoid wicker or cardboard carriers for regular use: they are hard to clean, soak up urine and smells and offer no protection. The cardboard boxes clinics hand out are fine in an emergency, but a determined cat can break out of them. Also avoid carriers with only a small front door and no way of opening the top, because they force you to pull the cat out. And do not put two cats in the same carrier, even if they get on: in a stressful situation they may fight. One cat, one carrier.
The carrier as part of the furniture
The big secret is that the carrier should not appear only when it is time for the vet. Leave it out at home all the time, open, in a spot the cat likes, with a blanket or bed inside. Put treats in it now and then, serve the odd meal in it and let the cat use it as a hiding place or bed. Many cats end up sleeping in it. Once it goes in without any problem, start closing the door for a few seconds with a treat, lift it a few centimetres and put it down, and build up from there. That way, on the day you need to go out, it will go in the way it gets into its bed, without a chase.
How to get a reluctant cat inside
If it is not used to it yet and you have to go now, do not chase it around the house, because it will remember. Get the carrier ready first, with the blanket and a few treats inside, and close the door of the room the cat is in so it cannot hide under a bed. With a carrier that opens at the top it is much easier: pick the cat up calmly, holding it securely, and lower it in from above rather than pushing it through the front door. If it is very elusive, wrap it in a towel. Spraying feline facial pheromones inside about fifteen minutes beforehand can help.
The journey: in the car and at the clinic
Always carry the carrier level, held with both hands or hugged to you, not dangling from the handle and swinging like a shopping bag. In the car, wedge it on the floor behind the front seat or secure it with the seat belt. In the clinic waiting room, put it up high, on a chair or on your lap, away from dogs, and cover it with a towel so it feels hidden. Some clinics have cat-only waiting rooms. When you get home, if there are other cats, let the one coming back settle in calmly, because it brings clinic smells that may unsettle the others.
Cleaning and maintenance
Put an absorbent pad in the bottom with the blanket on top, and always take a spare on journeys. If the cat wees or vomits, clean the carrier with an enzymatic cleaner, which genuinely removes the smell, and not with bleach or ammonia, which remind cats of urine and may make them mark again. Check the catches, hinges and screws from time to time, and that the door has no play in it. A carrier that springs open in the middle of the street is the beginning of a lost cat.
Have one per cat, for emergencies too
If you have several cats, it is worth having a carrier for each, even if they usually go to the vet one at a time. The reason is emergencies: a fire, a flood or an evacuation of the building, when you have to get them all out at once and fast. Having them to hand, not at the back of a storeroom, and cats that are used to going in can make all the difference. Next to the carrier, a small bag with the vaccination record, a photo of the cat, some food and a towel completes the kit.
Choose a rigid carrier that opens at the top with a removable lid, big enough for the cat to turn round and lie down. Leave it out at home as a bed, with treats inside, and carry it level and securely. One carrier per cat.
Educational content from Michipedia, translated from the Spanish original. It does not replace the advice of a vet or a feline behaviour specialist. Every cat is an individual.